Posted by squishy on Sunday, March 07 @ 20:56:49 EST (8 reads)
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The Northwest Face of Pyramid Peak
Beginnings
I had my eye on the northwest face of Pyramid Peak for quite a while before actually going there to check it out. Although this early attention led to some temporary frustration during the journey to climbing a route on this face, in the end it made it more satisfying. Pyramid Peak captured my interest several years ago because it was the closest mountain to me that felt like a 'real' mountain (e.g. at least a couple thousand feet of windswept rock and snow, you know what I mean). My first glimpse of the mountain came when I climbed up Horsetail Falls in the snow one May weekend wearing shorts and trailrunners and didn't even own an ice-axe. The rest of the party was complaining that we should go back (especially Squishy, who at the time smoked more and was much more sedentary than he is today), but I had to press on through the snow until I finally caught a glimpse of the reclusive Pyramid Peak that the internet claimed was right there (little did I know at the time that when the air is clear enough, such as on a cold, crisp winter morning, I can actually see the Crystal Range just blocks from where I live). In the several years since my first peek at the peak, I've managed to explore most aspects of Pyramid Peak, as well as much of the high Crystal Range. Due to the convenient location, Pyramid Peak is an ideal testing ground for all sorts of techniques in various seasons. This is a story encompassing several of these ventures into the wilderness, though it seems you have to go a bit out of your way to find true desolation given the number of people in Desolation Wilderness (due mostly to the same proximity and ease of access that led me there). However, there are many obscure yet spectacular areas that see relatively little use if you take the time to find them. The area north of the peak, containing the NW face as well as the Pyramid Couloir, is one of them.
I don't recall the exact origins of the premise, but once we started learning to rock climb and accumulating climbing gear it seemed like a no-brainer to try for technical routes on the mountain. The only aspect that would accommodate this goal was the hidden face tucked into a west facing corner that is barely visible outside the basin below it and the neighboring peaks immediately to the north. Luckily, we had noticed it during a number of previous hiking and scrambling trips into the basin and climbing Mt. Agassiz, including the unnamed tarns in the basin, the higher of which is the perfect basecamp. Click read more for the rest of the route.
Posted by adam on Thursday, October 15 @ 01:27:30 EDT (212 reads)
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Pyramid Couloir
Pyramid Couloir is an obvious and aesthetic line accessing the west ridge of Pyramid Peak from the northwest. It is an easy snow climb in the spring, suitable for beginners, but melts into a dangerous gully of loose talus later in the season. It can be done as a day hike or you can camp at Lake Sylvia. Because of the 6 mile approach and the fact that this aspect of the mountain is only visible from the basin above Lake Sylvia and high on neighboring Mt. Agassiz, this route receives few visitors and little attention despite the popularity of Pyramid Peak itself.
Getting to the trailhead
The Pyramid Couloir can be reached from Lyons Creek Trailhead located 4 miles north on Wrights Road from Highway 50 between Kyburz and Strawberry. Wrights Road is not plowed in the winter. Click read more for the rest of the route.
Posted by squishy on Sunday, October 04 @ 14:43:34 EDT (156 reads)
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Eagle Route
The Eagle Route is a moderate traditional climbing route, but with a short hike so it feels and appears to be more like a mini-alpine rock climb. With a short but steep hike and solid rock over beautiful views, it's a worthy undertaking for budding tradition style climbers. The Eagle Route is rated 5.5 but feels a bit harder and also depends on which variation you choose near the summit.
The approach:
From the Eagle Falls Trailhead, follow the trail for about a mile, stay on the lower fork of the turon loop. You will pass a bridge and the falls on the way to the lake, this is a busy trailhead with frequent tourist who hike to the lake. Take the fork to the lake and cross the lake outlet, follow a use trail around the lakeshore. You will come to a small rock wall on the side of the lake, follow the use trail up around the right hand side of this small wall. To the west there are two large gullies/draws coming down from the ridge, head up the gully on the right through tallus boulders. Half way up this gully cross the brush to the left onto more tallus which reaches the top. Upon reaching the top of the gully, follow the ridgeline to the northwest (turn right) for about one-half mile until reaching the Eagle Lake Buttress. There is a neat balancing rock in the middle of this ridge with spectacular views of Emerald Bay and the Desolation Wilderness, this is where the Eagle Lake Buttress comes into view. There are some trees and shade near the base for gearing up. Click read more for the rest of the route.
Posted by squishy on Wednesday, September 09 @ 01:20:05 EDT (162 reads)
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Yosemite from Bottom to Top 2009
In the second week of June 2009, we had a small team poised to tackle the fourteen thousand foot summit of Mt Williamson via the Long Twisting Rib route, but the weather and many other factors shut down our primary plans, secondary plans, and even plan C. We had the time off work but the constant rumble of this spring’s Sierra thunderstorms, Adam’s bum knee (from attempting to dayhike Shasta), and the long drive kept us on the west side of the Sierra. I had mentioned doing several alternative hikes and climbs, and it turned into a four day tour of Yosemite from bottom to top, from sunshine to snowstorms and even some mist thrown in for good measure. Making the best of your situation, time, and weather is an extensive mountaineering discipline in itself. I for one wouldn’t be able to take advantage of such limited time without being flexible, adaptable, and prepared.
Once again Biz was involved, a friend of ours, mountain guide, SP member, and now Yosemite resident. If I have to include his name, the word epic usually follows, and he did not fail at ensuring we pushed the limits once again. Last year Biz and I did a whirl wind tour of Conness’s North Ridge, my first alpine climb and first experience puking and dry heaving for a summit. When Biz heard we were planning and training for Williamson, it was a no brainer for him. Adam acquired the permits and we began training, long hikes with weight and traditional multi-pitch climbing to get the technically inexperienced up to speed.
Next came Adam’s bum knee, during a last minute training hike on Shasta he developed pain during the descent, rare for an apparently indestructible person such as Adam. The week before, during a tension traverse at Phantom Spires, a cam blew and he got banged up pretty bad, his first lead fall. Major raspberries down his legs, scratched up face, and even a dented helmet. Following one of Bob Burd’s scramble routes in Yosemite Valley recently, Adam was quoted as he walked into camp near 10 pm: "We almost died." They probably didn’t really, but they did bail on the intended mission (North Dome via the Ahwahnee Ledges) and ended up descending Indian Creek Canyon at night with one headlamp between him and his wife (after the second was accidentally broken). Click read more for the rest of the story, it's a good one.
Posted by squishy on Tuesday, August 04 @ 22:50:38 EDT (217 reads)
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Old Original 2009
Back in 2008 Requiem, Lew and I completed “old original” an alpine style route which traverses the entire 600 foot Machete Ridge, the largest rock formation in Pinnacles National Monument. We were new to multi-pitch climbing at the time and gained valuable experience during our epic adventure climb. We brought back amazing stories of dropped gear, sidewalks in the sky and rappels after dark into the caves below, I only escaped by walking miles in wet rock slippers. We had considerable interest from other members and resolved to go back and do it again, this time with the folks who missed it the 1st time around. Click "read more" below for the complete report.
Posted by squishy on Wednesday, November 26 @ 20:13:49 EST (353 reads)
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North Ridge of Mount Conness 2008
Randomly, Summit Poster Biz, sent me an email and wanted to climb the North Ridge of Mount Conness. I must have been a little buzzed from some red wine when I sat down to reply. I was soon in the middle of changing jobs and packing for my 1st alpine climb. I had no idea what to bring so I just brought it all, climbing gear, camping gear and backpacking gear.
We left Sacramento at 9:00pm Friday September 19th, and reached Saddlebag lake campground after midnight. When we pulled into the parking lot and noticed a few people sleeping on the ground next to their vehicles and soon we did the same. Biz probably wanted to leave earlier, but we woke up with the sun. We organized a small lightweight rack for the day, consisting of a bunch of climbing gear (full set of Metolious ultra light cams, and a set of Black Diamond nuts complimented with lightweight slings and draws). I had some old green tea and set off toward the lake. We met a considerably large group near the dam, they were aiming for the normal route; it seemed it would be a crowded mountain. I didn't make it more than 10 minutes before throwing up all over the trail. Could it have been the old green tea I had for breakfast or something else? Click read more for the rest of the trip report
Posted by squishy on Thursday, October 09 @ 01:07:44 EDT (452 reads)
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Spicer Terraces Rock Climbing 2008
Action Report by Erykmynn
Climbing at Spicer Terraces
September 9, 2008
Bear Valley, Alpine County, CA
Saturday morning, Squishy, Amber and I headed up the Ebbet's Pass Scenic Byway to one of our new favorite spots, Spicer Terraces, for a little crack climbing fun. Amber and I were especially excited since we had been sick the last week and done little to no climbing since our trip. Squishy also hadn't been out much lately since his scrambling trip on Middle Palisade (the trip report even made the Summitpost front page!). Click read more for the rest of the trip report.
New Spicer Meadow Reservoir
Posted by squishy on Wednesday, September 17 @ 17:05:50 EDT (662 reads)
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Middle Palisade 2008
From Aug 6th to 11th Hiking-n-stuff embarked on an epic journey to the east side of the high Serra to climb one of California’s 14ers; Middle Palisade, at 14,012 feet, is the highest several members of the group have ever been. On Wednesday August 6th we drove over Monitor pass and down highway 395, to the famous Whoa Nellie Deli for lunch and some mango margaritas. We stopped in Bishop to pick up our permits and turned onto Glacier Lodge Road in Big Pine. The latecomers from the Bay Area contacted us via radio and we were all in camp by 10pm. We grabbed a nice car camping site next to a small creek filled with brook trout, and a camp fire and some wine rounded out a surprisingly relaxing day.
The next morning on Thursday August 7th, we packed up our gear and began the approach to our base camp near the mountain. At the end of Glacier Lodge Road we took the South Fork of the Big Pine Creek into the John Muir Wilderness toward Brainerd Lake. Leaving the trail at a shallow unnamed lake we ventured up to Finger Lake, our home for the next few days. We found a well used campsite above the lake, and the old Middle Palisade Summit register on the ground. It was dated 1934 from the Serra club, most likely bought down and replaced when its lid broke. Some left over thunder storms from the days before sprinkled on us in the evening, and the wind picked up during the night. Click read more for the rest of the trip report.
